January 20, 2014

Viking Hat

My fourth Sir Knight hat, is again a base only. I used the pattern for the extra large and did it in black once again, but this time it is for my husband. (though I might wear it too) The idea is to do a Viking style, and not the Knight look. The Vikings are the mascot of the school where my husband teaches.

Once I completed the base, I did a border for around the brim in gray with popcorn stitches to make it look like it had that metal bolt rim. Since the widest part of the hat is 68 stitches, I made the brim part 70 to make sure it fit over the base and didn't constrict the head. You could probably also just do 68 stitches and then do it in one hook size larger as well...

Bolted Brim: in Gray
Row 1: Chain 70, and connect to first chain with a slip stitch.
Row 2: Chain one and do 70 sc around, connect to first with a slip stitch
Row 3: Chain three and do *6 double crochet, one popcorn stitch*, repeating around, connect to first with a slip stitch
Row 4: Chain one and do 70 sc around, connect to first with a slip stitch. Bind off.

*Popcorn stitch: Work 5 double crochet into the next stitch. Remove the hook from the loop (scary, I know) and insert it into the first of the double crochet you just made. Pick up the dropped loop and draw it through the first double crochet you stuck your hook into. Then secure it with a chain 1, which will be the top of your popcorn stitch for the next row.

I sewed down the brim along the top of the eyebrow row of the hat so that neck part of it does come out below the brim, like it should. This was a mistake, because by sewing it down, it made it unable to stretch which is why the hat fit my husband... so I had to un-sew it. I then tried tacking down around each popcorn, but leaving the rest unattached. It stretches better and the tension keeps the band on right. Next time just do the brim rows as the last 4 rows of the hat base before the neck part... duh.

Next I made some horns for the sides. These start with white at the point, than grow larger and curl (hopefully) and then will have a gray studded band at the base. Stuff them as you go along, and then sew them on. Helps to have a model try it on and then mark where you want the horns to be.

I used this free pattern for horns from Cheyenne Crochet as a base pattern, but changed quite a few elements to get the look I wanted. I rewrote the pattern to have the same kind of base on the horns as on the brim. I also used the front loops only on the sc to give my horns a spiral, ribbed look.

Tip: Front loop is the one facing you as you work, back loops are on the back of the stitch.

Another reason I rewrote the pattern was because some of the rows made no sense to me, like the original Row 5 which reads: 4sc, m2 x2, 4 sc, s2g. To me that adds up to 13 not 10 stitches. Unless I am counting wrong or misunderstanding the x2 instructions... Where you see an "m2 x2" I did an increase (or 2 sc in one stitch) and then another increase in the next stitch, so there are two increases in a row, over two stitches. Not sure if they meant do 4 stitch increase in one stitch, but it was confusing me… Hopefully this is as clear as mud to you, as well. :P

Horns with Band
Row 1: magic circle, sc 6 - 6st. - try to leave a tail of about 8 inches out the tip 
-- From here on sc is in front loops only -- (forms a spiral ridge on outside)
Row 2: m2, 5sc - 7st.
Row 3: 1sc, m2 x2, 2sc, s2g - 8st.
Row 4: 3sc, m2, 4sc - 9st.
Row 5: 4sc, m2, 4sc - 10st.  (can also be 3sc, m2 x2, 2sc, s2g)  
Row 6: 4sc, m2, 5sc - 11st.
Row 7: 4sc, m2 x2, 3sc, s2g - 12st.
Row 8: 5sc, m2, 6sc - 13st.
Row 9: 5sc, m2 x2, 4sc, s2g - 14st.
Row 10: 6sc, m2, 7sc - 15st.
Row 11: 6sc, m2 x2, 5sc, s2g - 16st.
Row 12: 7sc, m2, 8sc - 17st.
Row 13: 7sc, m2 x2, 6sc, s2g - 18st. 
Row 14: 8sc, m2, 9sc - 19st.
Row 15: 8sc, m2 x2, 7sc, s2g - 20st.
Row 16: 9sc, m2, 10sc - 21st.
Row 17: 9sc, m2 x2, 8sc, s2g - 22st.
Row 18: 10sc, m2, 11sc - 23st.
Row 19: 10sc, m2 x2, 9sc, s2g - 24st.  
Row 20: switch to gray, back loops only, sc around 24st., slip stitch to first
Row 21: chain 2, 5 dc, popcorn stitch*, repeat around 24st. (will have 4 popcorns)
Row 22: sc around 23st. Bind off. Leave tail for sewing to hat. 

for the horns, since the band is a little smaller, make your popcorns with only 4dc instead of the 5dc like on the brim band.
Top with tied down tail for curve, Bottom not yet done.
To get a more pronounced curl to the horn, take the tail from the tip and pull it along the inside of the curve, inside the horn. Then pull tight to desired curve and secure it at the base of the white section of the horn. 

Note to self: make a set of horns, in tan, without the band, to add to the chinese dragon hat.
Finished Hat

It's too big on me... maybe next time I'll put the horns lower, too.

Total time for the Viking hat, about 7 hours, most of the time in the horns as I wanted to get them right.